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The best Greek white wines to discover outside of assyrtiko.

The best Greek white wines to discover outside of assyrtiko.

The best Greek white wines to discover outside of assyrtiko.

My recent visit to a winery on the volcanic island of Santorini, just north of Crete in the southern Aegean Sea, was an unbelievable stroke of luck. The grape that reigns supreme here is white wine assyrtiko, the shade of its vines forming unique round baskets on the ground where the fruit is protected and the plant adheres to the small amount of moisture it receives - usually from salty sea mist (rainfall here is extremely low).

Assyrtiko from Santorini are persistent and bold wines. They are white wines of exceptional purity, with refreshing notes of lemon, verbena, light peach or apricot and a sea salt aftertaste that makes you salivate. It's beautifully''wines we'll talk about later this summer), I recommend checking out the aromatic Moschofilero and the flavorful Roditis, as well as the excellent Vindiano. The latter comes from one of the UK's important suppliers of Greek wines, Maltby & Greek (maltbyandgreek.com). And by all means, Wine Society members should check out the impressive range of Greek wines there.

I would pair any of the featured wines with a wide variety of salads and vegetables such as bell peppers, green beans and zucchini, as well as fish. They pair well with eggs - I recommend trying it alongside Diane Henrie's strapatsatha dish (Greek eggs with tomatoes).

There are a few Greek white wines worth trying:

  • Found Moschofilero-Roditis 2022, Peloponnese, Greece 12.5%, Marks & Spencer,''£8.50; Ocado, £9 off to £8 until September 12. From the Found series of more unusual styles of wine, this is a blend of two indigenous grape varieties grown at relatively high altitude. The wine has notes of lychee and rosewater in an exotic style, this is reminiscent of Argentinian torrontes. Be sure to chill before drinking as an aperitif.
  • Kir-Yianni Paranga White 2022, Macedonia, Greece 12.5%, Telegraph Wine Cellar, £13.65 off up to £12 until August 28 or £10.80 for each bottle in a box of 12 bottles.
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Here the malagousia gives the wine aromas of apricot, lychee and jasmine blossom, while the rhoditis gives lively, refreshing acidity. I like this wine with soft and savory cheeses (including feta) and salads.
  • Zacharias Assyrtiko 2022, Peloponnese, Greece 14%, Waitrose, £12.49. A very clean and fresh assyrtiko, in''Unlike the more expensive Santorini style, it lacks complexity, but it is attractive nonetheless. It is reminiscent of fresh lemon and sharp green apple. Great with seafood.
  • Douloufakis Dafnios Vidiano 2022, Crete, Greece 13%, maltbyandgreek.com, £17.50; wineandgreene.com, £17.95; strictlywine.co.uk, £17.99. A deliciously juicy, refreshing white wine made from an old and rare Cretan grape variety, the vidiano, which is undergoing a revolution on the island. From the aroma of apricot and jasmine to the flavors of passion fruit and pink grapefruit, this is a summer delight. The Wine Society is currently featuring a second more herbaceous wine (with a hint of aniseed) of the 2021 vintage, priced at £14.95 (13.5%).
  • The Society'\''s Exhibition Assyrtiko 2021, Santorini, Greece 13%, The Wine Society, £17.50.'''A very good white wine produced in the excellent winery of Artemis Karamolegos in Santorini from the fruit of very old vines. It shows classic peach, citrus and sea salt notes of the island's assyrtiko, and a wonderfully long, clean and refreshing aftertaste. One of the best pairings with fried white fish and seafood.
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