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Why Corfu Island is the perfect destination for old money, from the Rothschilds to the Gettys.

Why Corfu Island is the perfect destination for old money, from the Rothschilds to the Gettys.

Why Corfu Island is the perfect destination for old money, from the Rothschilds to the Gettys.

Mesmerizing, cultured Corfu has attracted pleasure seekers throughout history, all captivated by its tranquil charms.

"You have to wear linen here because it's very hot," says shoe designer Christina Martini, talking in her workshop in the ancient town of Corfu, from where she can see the bright turquoise Ionian Sea. She used to work in Paris for Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, so it's safe to assume she knows what to wear and where. "It's not a dressy island like Mykonos," she explains. "Here it's more relaxed and people wear what they like."

Perhaps it is this freedom that has attracted sophisticated British immigrants to Corfu for centuries - and never more so than now. We are not the most elegant race, and wherever the rules are just 'absolutely no heels' because of the paving, they evoke a sense of confidence. This is one of the many features that make it the perfect place for hidden wealth.

Singer Isabel Getty, a descendant of the Getty and Miller dynasties, is a frequent guest at friends' villas in the north of the island.

"There's nothing flashy here," she confirms. "You can go to the beach without makeup, with your hair loose, and since it's not very windy here, they won't interfere with your food. Also, when you're here, you don't bump into everyone: it's a hidden gem."

Historic Fortress, Corfu Town.

It's also comforting to know that this island, about seven miles off the west coast of Greece, is much beloved by the British. When the British arrived in 1815, they kicked out the unpopular French and, broadly speaking, organized Greece's first university, improved the water supply and introduced cricket to the island. Of the 15 cricket clubs that now flourish in Greece, 11 are in Corfu. British rule here (it was a protectorate, not a colony) was favorable compared to earlier times.

The island has other eccentricities that will pique the interest of those allergic to sterile, yellow sandy beaches and chips with everything. First of all, thanks to the mountains, Corfu is much rainier and therefore greener than most Greek islands, which brings a welcome touch of Blighty to the Mediterranean. And it's worth bearing in mind that any stroll through the hidden alleys and small squares of Corfu Town is likely to be accompanied by the sound of a resounding orchestra. There are 17 philharmonic societies and orchestras on the island that rehearse regularly, and almost every child learns a musical instrument or two at an almost professional level.

The historical figures who have been here have always been extraordinary.

Empress Elizabeth of Austria, the glamorous Sisi (she liked to scatter diamonds and pearls through her long black hair), left her husband in the 1880s and moved into a villa built here. It was furnished exclusively with extremely uncomfortable imitation Pompeian furniture. Cristina Martini and her daughter Daphne.

Our own Prince Philip began as he was about to continue, born on a table in the palace of Mont Repo in Corfu Town. And that's not even to mention the Durrell family - the naturalist Gerald and the novelist Lawrence - who were so important to the island's appeal to the British that the equivalent of Green Park in Corfu Town is now the Durrell Memorial Garden. In recent years, Gerald worried that his books had made the place too popular and led to its destruction by a million package tours. But paradoxically, it's a true island for the dedicated: you just need to make sure you don't check into an all-inclusive that doesn't encourage exploration. As long as you stay away from them, it seems almost impossible to come on a week-long Corfu vacation without planning to move to the island permanently and dreaming of your own perfect villa.

James Blunt did just that, buying an ancient Venetian farmhouse on the posh north coast near the fishing village of Kassiopi and decorating it without regard for cost or time. "Corfu is not pretentious," he said, explaining his purchase. "It doesn't try to be fancy, but it retains an old-fashioned charm." Now he plans to sell at a profit.

Others were not so forward-thinking. On a nature walk with Yorgos Hatzandraeou, who organizes walking tours around the cliffs and olive groves lining the coast, we saw a beautiful 1960s modernist villa. A Frenchman (or perhaps a Russian, stories vary) built it overlooking the tiny and exquisite Limni beach on the west of the island.

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He spent all his money on the project, including transporting all the building materials by boat - there were no roads - but died before his white colonnaded folly was completed. Now it lies in picturesque ruins, and local lovers come here to propose marriage to their girlfriends at sunset: the ruined roof terrace is studded with wilted red roses.

Lord Rothschild's construction was definitely more successful. His mother Barbara was married to Greek artist Niko Gika, and together they built a summer house in Corfu overlooking the nearby coast of Albania. Hannah, Jacob's daughter, says now, “Spending every summer on the island was impressed into my earliest memories.” Isabel Getty enjoys the views. The Rothschild family has a strong gravitas, and King Charles and Queen Camilla are among the crowds who have visited the estate. “Starting with Emperor Nero, people have chosen Corfu as a vacation destination,” Hannah explains. “It's a combination of beautiful scenery, temperate climate and incredibly charming people.” Modern emperors from Agnelli to Murdoch have moored their yachts nearby.

Princess Lalla Salma Morocco can't resist visiting. Of course, there are luxury hotels to stay in. The Domes Miramare, which used to be the villa of Aristotle Onassis, has all the glitz of chandeliers, marble floors and Michelin-starred chefs. The Kerkyra Blue Hotel and Spa was recently renovated this year and features a wave-shaped pool and candlelit spa treatment rooms, as well as a Japanese fusion restaurant. But choosing a five-star hotel would be a miss, because the essence of the island is relaxed coziness.

The boats and villas are luxurious, but the atmosphere ashore is relaxed: Toula's Seaside restaurant on the beach in Agni is the place for freshly caught fish and discreet people-watching, according to both Hannah and Isabel. Christina, whose Ancient Greek Sandals brand was inspired by the island's laid-back lifestyle, favors the wine-matching menu at Salto restaurant in Corfu's Old Town. Hannah buys her homemade ginger ale in Corfu Town, although, “after teenage angst”, doesn't drink the sweet local liqueur Metaxa. The Orange Tree, near Agios Stefanos beach and water scooters, is a new villa.

You may not have an eight-bedroom, 73-meter yacht to dock in front of your father's estate like Nathaniel Rothschild, but life on the water is still possible. In any beachfront resort, you can rent small boats for the day. After a little driving lesson and you're off, hopping from cove to cove and diving into water so warm, even in October, that you don't have to collect yourself before diving in. Instantly you can feel as comfortable in a yachting hat as Tony Curtis in “How Do You Like It?”. For those who have yet to build their own dream home in Corfu, there are plenty of options for rent. The Orange Tree, near Agios Stefanos beach and its water scooter rentals, is a new villa. It's a passion project for English couple Kate and John Minch, who created it using traditional dry stone techniques. The villa has huge covered terraces “which are great as a party venue,” Kate says. They've also planted gardens overflowing with plumbago and citrus trees, and can walk down a steep hill to the beach via their own olive grove. The house has the same views of the misty Albanian coast that have inspired writers from Patrick Leigh Fermor to Hannah Rothschild. Her own latest novel, “It's Time,” tells the story of an Albanian royal

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