Purkari - news about wine and spirits, bringing Moldova to London.
Last week in London, the wine cellars of Purcari Wineries Group - one of the largest exporters in the region - invited the UK to explore several lesser-known wines and grape varieties from Moldova, Romania, and Bulgaria. Wines from the three countries made their way to the British market during a tasting event attended by representatives of the trade press, sommeliers, and special guests, such as Wine Chateau - an importer whose drink list is 99% comprised of Moldovan wines.
The event was hosted by the renowned expert Carolyn Gilby, who conducted a presentation and tasting of the group's wineries.
The cell includes Château Purcari - the oldest winery in Moldova, founded in 1827, as well as the larger and more modern Bostavan winery, also located in Moldova. In Romania, on the border with Ukraine, there is the Crama Ceptura winery in the heart of the Dealu Mare wine region, and in Bulgaria, there is Angel's Estate in the Thracian Valley.
It should be noted that Moldova is the largest exporter of bottled wine, and Gilby pointed out that grapevines are more prevalent in Moldova than anywhere else in the world, which she believes makes wine a local product and a key component of the country's economy.
Further, a more detailed study was conducted on what makes the wines of this region unique. In 2013, the regions of Moldova were divided into three zones of geographical protection: Codru in the center of the country, and Ștefan Vodă, where the Purcari winery allows a glimpse into neighboring Ukraine, and the Valul Lui Traian ("Trajan's Wall") zone, where Roman ruins still stand among vineyards that enjoy the warmest and most Mediterranean climate in the country.
The local continental climate influence, determined by the hilly terrain (79% of Moldova is made up of hills), is ideal for viticulture, says Carolyn Gilby. She also adds that the soil "is usually quite rich in black soil with fertile topsoil, but underneath it lies a limestone substrate. If there were only black soil on the surface, it wouldn't be as good, but thanks to the substrate, the slopes, and the airflow, there is a lot of potential here."
When it comes to grape varieties, Moldova offers a wide range, using international varieties as a benchmark for quality. Among them are Aligoté (5013 ha), Sauvignon Blanc (4601 ha), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5013 ha). Here, wineries can showcase their local offerings alongside world-renowned varieties such as Fetească Albă (732 ha), Fetească Regală (669 ha), and local varieties Rara Neagră (172 ha) and Fetească Neagră (336 ha).
Fetească Albă delighted at the tasting with a fresh pearl wine, preserving notes of white peach and apple blossom thanks to a restrained aging on the lees.
The delightful red wines turned out to be the free blend Château Purcari, which deserves attention for its recent renaming in solidarity with Ukraine. Since 2014 (vintage 2011), this symbolic wine has been produced in memory of the 20th anniversary of liberation from the Soviet Union, and since 2021, its label now features the yellow and blue colors of Ukraine, with profits from sales going to charity to support children affected by the conflict. The powerful blend of 65% Saperavi from Georgia, 20% Rara Neagră from Moldova, and 15% of the local Bastardo Magaraci variety will return to its original design "when the war is over... hopefully very soon," said Atur Marin, the commercial director of Purcari.
In other wines, interest and potential can be found in the new Academia collection from Château Purcari, which was created using amphorae and minimal intervention methods, such as no added yeast. The bottle is also black to preserve the wine for a longer time, and tests are currently being conducted to determine how long the drink develops.
And finally, the attention turned to one of the most famous Moldovan brands - Negru de Purcari (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Saperavi, 5% local Rara Neagră). Created in the 19th century, the blend was recreated in the 1950s and then found new life in the new private era of Château Purcari, starting in 2003. The 2019 edition fully lived up to its reputation as a blend from the best wineries, featuring a soft blackberry flavor that leaves an unforgettable impression of Moldovan wines.
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