Rare Finds from Decanter: A Journey Through Italy's Lesser-Known Grape Varieties
On Sunday, April 14, in Verona, Michel Sherutti-Koval MW organized a masterclass from Decanter, showcasing several wines made from rare grape varieties of Italy. Sherutti-Koval selected 10 wines that received gold or platinum medals at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) and presented them to participants at the annual Vinitaly event. Below you will find my notes on each of the 10 wines presented by Sherutti-Koval. This masterclass clearly demonstrated the high quality of the Decanter judges: each wine was not only of exceptional quality but also had a vibrant character.
DWWA Statistics in Numbers
DWWA is the largest wine competition in the world. In 2023, 18,250 samples from 57 countries were submitted to the competition, evaluated by 236 experts, including 53 masters of wine and 16 master sommeliers.“Tuscany became the region with the most awards in the world last year,”“noted Sherutti-Koval, regional president of DWWA forTuscany. However, it was not only Tuscany, one of the leading wine regions in Italy in terms of volume, that received recognition: Italy as a whole ranked second after France with 2,777 medals won across all 20 regions.”
Rare Decanter finds in Italy
- Colli di Poianis, Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli Prepotto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2018.The first wine presented was Schioppettino from Colli do Poianis, a single-varietal wine from the Prepotto subzone in Colli Orientali del Friuli. The Schioppettino variety nearly disappeared after the phylloxera invasion, but it was successfully revived in the 1970s, explained Sherutti-Koval. The vineyards were planted in 1982 on chalky and sandstone soils and represent a top variety according to the estate. The wine was aged in French oak barrels. Its complex aroma includes sour and dried cherries with spices and earthy notes. The drink has a silky texture, a vibrant peppery taste, and combines concentrated red and black fruits with subtle herbal undertones. 94-97 points / platinum (DWWA 2023).
- Sandonna by Patricia Giuliani, Bonadea, Norcia, Umbria 2020.Sandonna by Patricia Giuliani is located at an altitude of about 300 meters above sea level. Bonadea is a 100% Ciliegiolo, a historic variety from this region. Sherutti-Koval noted that“It's unusual to find wine made solely from Ciliegiolo.”Wine from 0.3 hectares of vineyards, with an average age of 35 years, underwent spontaneous fermentation in a tin and was aged for 30-40 days. After that, it spends 12 months in a barrel and six months in concrete tanks, followed by another 12 months in the bottle. This wine is full of wild strawberries and herbs, juicy and concentrated with good density, a pleasant sweetness of red fruits, and a chocolate depth in the finish. 92-96 points / gold (DWWA 2023).
- Villechm Valch, Lagrein, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Trentino-Alto Adige 2022.Lagerin is an ancient, local variety from Alto Adige/Südtirol in northern Italy.“We know from DNA analysis that it has existed in Alto Adige for a very long time, its parent is Tyroler, and its sibling is Marzemino.”“This wine is vinified in stainless steel, then aged in antique Slovenian barrels and 20-liter French oak barrels. It has a rich purple color, aromas of herbs and exotic spices, and a taste with a rich chocolate character balanced by good acidity. The tannins remain, supporting a soft, rounded, and generous profile of dark fruits with a luxurious yet fresh finish. 93-95 points / gold (DWWA 2023).”
- Badia a Coltibuono, Montebello, Tuscany 2018.Montebello from Badia a Coltibuono is an amazing blend of nine local grape varieties from Tuscany: Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Follyatonda, and of course, Sangiovese.“Sangiovese plays a supporting role.”“Noted Sherutti-Koval. The Chianti Classico estate has started a program to restore rare grape varieties, all grown separately in the Montebello vineyard in Gaole. The grapes are then vinified and aged separately for 24 months before blending. The wine spends another six months in barrels and six months in bottles.
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Intense, spicy, and sharp cherries and red berries are combined with a hint of mint. It is a complex, medium-bodied wine, with its grainy tannins highlighting the blend of sweet cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry, chocolate, and herbs.”“The team fell in love with his scent.”– remembered Sherutti-Koval. 95 97 points / platinum (DWWA 2023).Tenute Lunelli, Carapace, Montefalco Sagrantino, Umbria 2018.Carapace from Tenute Lunelli is a 100% Sagrantino from Umbria. Once, this grape variety was on the brink of extinction, but it was saved about 50 years ago.“It has a huge amount of tannins, and making this wine is not easy.”“– explained Sherutti-Koval. Deep and earthy aromas lead to black fruits and currants. The taste is well-balanced despite the high alcohol level and massive tannins: it is full-bodied but not overly rich. The fruits have a spicy, juicy, and almost sticky flavor, with excellent freshness and a refreshing menthol finish. 94-95 points / gold (DWWA 2023).” Abbey of Novacella, Praepositus Kerner, Alto Adige/Südtirol Val Isarco, Trentino-Alto Adige 2021.The Abbey of Novacella is the oldest active monastic winery in the world, founded in 1142, but the Kerner grape variety—a hybrid of Riesling and Schiava—was only created in 1929.“What is old is the winery; what is not old is the grape.”“– noted Sherutti-Koval. Kerner was easily recognized for its high acidity, combining soft aromas of apricot, orange peel, apple, and cream. Bright, fresh, and lively.”“You can tell it’s related to Riesling: pleasant acidity, very high.”, - she concluded. 93 95 points / gold (DWWA 2023). Corta Sermana, Sermana Riserva, Lugana, Veneto 2017.Turbiana is a variety that was previously considered identical to Verdicchio from Le Marche.“Unfortunately, there are enough differences between them to classify Turbiana as a separate variety.”“This reserve wine is produced from vineyards in San Benedetto di Lugana, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 30 months on the lees, with 80% in stainless steel and 20% in tonneaux. A vampiric note adds depth to the sweet aromas of pear, apple, and peach, complementing the light lemon and green fruit notes. Savory, fleshy, and structured, this wine pairs perfectly with meaty fish. 93-97 points / Platinum (DWWA 2023).” Marisa Kumo, Fiorduva, Amalfi Coast, Campania 2021.Given to Marisa on their wedding day, this estate is located on the Amalfi Coast. Fiorduva is a blend of 40% Ripoli (an early variety), 30% Fenile (a late variety), and 30% Ginestre (for aromatic complexity). The grapes are harvested a bit later at the end of October, and the wine – quite unusually – is aged in caves beneath high cliffs. The vinification takes place in French oak barrels for three months, after which the wine matures for another six months in barrels and 12 months in bottles.“Lightness and salt create the distinctive expression of the local varieties of the Coast of Amalfi.”The nutty blend combines juices, vibrant pineapple, lemon, and peach. Savory, concentrated, and fleshy, this distinctive and very appealing white wine scores 95-97 points / platinum (DWWA 2023). Velenosi, Rêv, Offida Pecorino, Le Marche 2021.Velenosi was founded in 1984 in the southern part of Le Marche, about 20 km from the coast.“This variety [Pecorino] is an older one that was almost lost and has actually been revived only 40 years ago.”“,” said Sherutti-Koval, emphasizing“incredible concentration of fruits”In this wine, late harvest and 50% fermentation and aging in new barrels for 20-24 months give Pecorino a beautiful concentration of ripe peach, pineapple, passion fruit, and lemon zest. There is refreshing acidity and a salty, cleansing aftertaste with an almost menthol effect. Excellent. 94-97 points / platinum (DWWA 2023). Vignata, Alpiiane Passito, Fior d'Arancio Colli Euganei, Veneto 2018.Orange Muscat is a hybrid of Muscat Blanc and Shasla, growing in limestone soils in the Euganean Hills.“This is one of the grape varieties that can be eaten, and it tastes like wine.”“Late-harvest grapes are dried for four months, pressed, and then fermented in French oak barrels for 18 months,” said Sherutti-Koval. Filled with notes of fragrant orange, apricot, ginger, and honey, this wine is rich yet well-balanced, with a round finish and a long aftertaste. 93-96 points / gold (DWWA 2023).
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