Explore the canyon and coastline in Montenegro.

In Montenegro, Kristina Webb experiences contrasts: from serpentine roads in the canyons near ancient monasteries in the north to the shimmering Adriatic Sea in the south. Her route can be an inspiration for organizing a road trip in this small but charming Balkan country..

Although the seductive beaches of southern Montenegro are hard to resist, the mysterious aura of the unexplored north of the country and the promise of interesting contrasts have awakened my curiosity..

Instead of following the coast from the capital Podgorica, I head in the opposite direction on the E80 road to Kolasin. The journey to Lovcen National Park © Alexey Kazachok Monastery Moracha is too hot for May. The roads are narrow and winding, and although traffic is light, caution is needed. I chose a road that has become known for its dangerous mountain passes. I find myself immediately on difficult roads, climbing through the Moracha valley, where the sky kisses the rocks, and the turquoise water rushes below,400 meters down. I look with open mouth at the cliff - not for the first time - and marvel at how small my rented car seems. As soon as the road widens, I catch my breath again, and the Monastery Moracha appears before me. This magnificent and well-preserved complex, a masterpiece of Serbian Orthodox architecture, includes two churches adorned with frescoes, a pride of this valley for eight centuries. Cattle graze in the yard, and I join several other visitors to enter and admire the wall paintings.

Recommended guides and products:

• Guide to Montenegro

Kolasin

After a lunch of fresh trout caught on the spot in a restaurant next to the water mill, I head to the ski resort of Kolasin. At this time of year, as summer approaches, it is a deserted town. The ski season has long ended, and I feel like the only tourist for miles around. I spend my first evening outside, warming my hands by the fire, enjoying the rustling of distant trees and the sounds of nocturnal wildlife, before lying down on the hay in one of the mushroom-shaped cottages that the local resident built on top of the hill.

Lake Biogradska in Biogradska Gora National Park © Kekäläinen

Sign up for our newsletter! Each week you will receive travel tips, special offers, stories from around the world and 30% off your first order.

Montenegro Parks

The next morning I leave early and head to Biogradska Gora National Park, one of the few remaining virgin forests in southeastern Europe. I realize the value of the lack of human interference in the landscape as I walk around Lake Biograd. Moving northwest into Durmitor National Park, the road becomes more impressive with every turn, reaching its climax at the spectacular Tara River Gorge, the deepest canyon in Europe: the bottom is 1,300 meters below. I gaze into the mountains, then pause to admire the view from the Djurdjevic Tara Bridge, which towers over the turbulent river. I just watch while a few daredevils prepare for rafting. Turning right, the road to Zabljak continues to meander. Even in full season, there's not much going on in town: it's the perfect place for a vacation.

Ostrog Monastery ©Tatiana Popova

Ostrog Monastery

I now head south into central Montenegro in search of the famous Ostrog Monastery. I add another hour to the journey, but the twists and turns of the road make it interesting. When the road opens up and I see the dazzling white monastery on the cliffs, I realize that the diversion had a purpose. This structure at 900 meters seems to defy gravity and is so beautiful it seems like a miracle. Was a refuge for clergy during Ottoman rule, it became an important pilgrimage site for Serbian Orthodox as well as Catholics and Muslims. I am surrounded by a large number of people, more than I have seen in all my days of traveling. I enter the rock churches to admire the golden frescoes with which they are decorated, which are as noteworthy as the bright blue sky I see from the terraces.

Read also:

• Montenegro coast

Returning to the wheel, I continue my journey south and reach Kotor in an hour. I enter the coastal road, and after a winding turn, I see the shimmering deep blue sea. Stopping by the shore to admire the sparkling bay of the Kotor Gulf, I also notice towns halfway up the mountain. The road descends, continuing along the seaside, and I get the impression that I am alone with the water. Upon arriving in Kotor, I take my luggage to the magnificent old town. I climb 1,300 steps to the highest point of the fortifications in the early morning shade, then enjoy seafood delicacies on sunny terraces. The plan was to stay for a few days to relax, but I eagerly look forward to getting back behind the wheel and dedicating the afternoon hours to exploration. I prepare for an exhilarating finale – a crash course in driving along the winding roads: I count 25 turns on the road leading from the sea to Mount Lovćen. Each steep turn is marked with a number and accompanied by my sigh of relief. As I ascend, I am rewarded with unparalleled panoramic views. The clouds begin to thicken, and I turn back to capture a few sights: such mountain panoramas of Montenegro are never excessive.

Recommended guides and products:

• Photo book Legendary Road Trips in Europe

Read also: