A strong powerful energetic feeling at a Greek winery - spreading right now.

After the annual Oenorama Greek Wine Fair in March, I traveled from Athens to Central Greece, to the Valley of the Muses, and then down to eastern Crete. Right now, the Greek wine scene feels so energized that if I were offered a Greek passport, I would change my name to Giorgos in a heartbeat. From the front lines of Greece's deep-rooted vineyards, I bring my own chart of the Ten Commandments of Greek Wine...

From Mokhtaro in the Valley of the Muses to Savatiano in Central Greece, to the familiar reverence of Assyrtiko in Santorini, old vineyards in Greece have a vast spread, and there is much more to discover, promote and celebrate. Greece is a country with snow-capped mountains, plenty of hills, lakes and an endless coastline. The Sunshine Islands may be a familiar poster child, but there's so much more - you'll find cool-climate vineyards in regions from Epirus on the northwest coast, where it often snows, to the breezy Valley of the Muses and the high plateau of Ziros in Crete. The heat in Greece is often tempered by wind, water and altitude.

Besides Santorini, there are many different styles of Assyrtiko on land and on the islands.

But after Assyrtiko, the next white heroic grape variety is ready to take its place. Savatiano has a wide distribution and quality. But Kidonica, albeit in small quantities, deserves to be the leader.

If you haven't tried aged Savatiano yet, put it at the very top of your must-try list - it's capable of surprising and fascinating variety. When it develops, its flavors make you linger: a blend of Chenin and Riesling, and a taste as deep as a citrus canyon, echoing Iggy Pop's boldest growl.

Young winemakers, lots of female winemakers, brothers, sisters, friends and international experience strengthen an industry that now feels like a close-knit friendly team.

This is a game changer. From Tselepos to Skouras, from Gaia to Monemvasia, as old rivalries fade into the background, a new generation is creating a new legacy with a youthful revolution.

In Greece, I discovered that wine can be very fruity, dry or even with an appetizing hint of sweetness. The deeper color seems to allow for a more accurate expression of the local grape varieties - in my opinion, Greece has much more variety and complexity to offer without worrying about the current obsession with pale rosé. Mouhtaro One 2022 (13% alcohol) from Samartzis Winery is one of my favorite deeper pink wines (imagine a combination of strawberry and pomegranate), and alas, for now it's only available at botilia.gr for €15.60, though you still have to factor in customs duties and shipping when ordering from outside the EU, so it's best to check with the seller before you make your final purchase.

Greek wines, both red and white, need time. Xinomavro benefits greatly from bottle aging, and I'm glad to see big names like Butari, as well as Xinomavro wizard Apostolos Timiopoulos, hold the wines back before release.

But behind the wave of international acclaim for Xinomavro, I am confident that Limniona and Mukhtaro both have the potential to become the flagships of the next generation of Greek red wines.

My advice to producers is "Be bold!". The entry level Muses Estate Clio white wine (12.5% alcohol), made from Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano, is perfectly balanced and represents outstanding value in the UK (2022, £15.95, Strictly Wine). And while I adore Malagusia varietal white, it also creates delicate aromatic wonders within the blend. While I largely eschew international grape varieties in Greek wine (with the exception of the excellent Avantis Estate Syrah Collection 2019), they can be useful for blending.

Samos is famous, Santorini's Vinsanto is legendary, but I'd urge you to take a look at the high quality aged Mavrodaphne. I'm a particular fan of Parparoussis Winery's work, and for a striking balance of sticky liveliness, his white Muscat de Rio Patras 2018 is available from Cava Spiliadis UK at £28.50/50cl. This is a world-class wine that every dessert wine fan should try.

After tasting Muses Estate, Mouhtaro 2021 at the winery, I ordered a case from an online vendor because it pleases me like no bottle of red wine I can remember. It's packed with aromas (reminiscent of those unforgettable whispers of violets from high-altitude Malbecs), and on the palate it's a delightful mystery: dried tomato meets wild strawberry with a bountiful refreshing aftertaste and deep dynamic vibrancy. Although the wine is young now with bright oak, its gentle spiciness will settle down with time and reveal more of the outstanding provenance of this rare Greek grape variety, almost with Rioja and Rhone character. Here the Valley of the Muses has written an ancient modern legend.