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Looking for peace and quiet? Explore France's Green Venice by paddle boat.

Looking for peace and quiet? Explore France's Green Venice by paddle boat.

Looking for peace and quiet? Explore France's Green Venice by paddle boat.

Fall in love with the slow journey, exploring Marais Poitevin by boat and bicycle. Tree branches tickle the surface of the narrow canal, while a small wooden boat lazily makes its way through the duckweed. No, we are not in "The Wind in the Willows." We are in Marais Poitevin - the "Green Venice" of France. This artificial labyrinth of streams, rivers, and canals was created by generations of market gardeners - and it's the perfect place for bike and boat trips. Second only to the Camargue in size, this marsh area on the Atlantic coast is protected for wildlife and unique cultural history. Benedictine monks from the10th century were the first to dig drainage canals which you can explore here. Marais Poitevin is split into two separate regions - the agricultural patchwork of canals, fields, and villages in the west and the wild, green Marais Sauvage in the east. The best way to venture here is to slow down. Here's how.

How to explore the Mare Poitevin nature reserve by bike

It was the moment when my five-year-old daughter fell in love with her bicycle. Her little legs were straining to pedal along the smooth asphalt, and her hair was blowing in the wind. We were biking from Tognon to the beautiful riverside Damvix for lunch. Our destination was Le Recre, an old elementary school transformed into a crêperie and pizzeria, decorated in a retro-academic style. No one had ever been prouder of a 14-kilometer ride. And no one had ever deserved a delicious ice cream at the end of the kids' menu more than she did. We passed by weeping willows and stone houses with bright shutters. As a peaceful vacation ride, it was heavenly. 850 km of flat designated bike paths take you through Marais Poitevin from Niort to the Atlantic coast. Suitable for people of all ages and fitness levels, they connect with local bike routes of Vande Velo and include the final section of the long route of Velo Francette. Download the official routes to your phone using the IGNrando app for route sharing or check out the routes suggested by users on Komoot. Bicycles can be rented throughout Marais Poitevin. For example, a one-day rental at La Bicyclette Vert in Arçais starts at 20 euros for adults, with discounts available for longer rentals.

How to travel around Mar Poitevin by boat

Mare Poitevin is a place that inspires tranquility, and there’s no better way to experience the timeless sense of seclusion in this region than by boat. You’ll find small docks—tiny boat piers—scattered throughout the marsh, but some of the most beautiful ones are located in the villages of Arçais, Coulon, and La Garette. Experienced local guides will take you on traditional flat-bottomed boats, sharing stories that have shaped the landscape you glide through. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can venture out on your own in a kayak or canoe.

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In Arçais, you have access to 40 km of picturesque canals. A two-hour guided boat tour with commentary on the history and wildlife of the region from Embarcadère Bardet-Huttiers starts at 28 euros per person. Once back on shore, check out the antique shops in the village or participate in the celebrations of Maraisthon—the world’s first eco-marathon—in Coulon in June. To learn more about local birds, take a short boat trip from the pontoon at Ouvéa de Mare Poitevin, home to 75 local bird species in Saint-Hilaire-la-Palud. To dive into history, head to the Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Pierre in Maillé. Here, traditional "barks" will guide you through the canals surrounding the massive ruins that once stood on the island.

Research beyond Mare Poitevin

When (if ever) you tire of the quiet life in Marais, the magnificent La Rochelle is just a 45-minute to an hour's drive away. Or take a train from Niort or Mosé-sur-le-Mignon. Here, exquisite seafood restaurants line the old harbor, nestled in the shadow of ancient towers, while boutiques hide in gallery-lined streets. In the summer, the beaches on the Île de Ré beckon you, just like the moules-frites along the waterfront in UNESCO-listed Saint-Martin-de-Ré. Alternatively, visit the fresh produce market in the style of Balthazar in Niort, open until 1 PM daily (except Mondays). Or enjoy a historical performance at the Puy du Fou amusement park, about an hour and a half away.

Where to stay when visiting Mare Poitevin

The Gîtes de France website lists several self-catering water cottages in the Marais Poitevin. Alternatively, you can choose a family-friendly hotel, such as the hotel au Marais in the heart of Coulon. Away from the Marais Poitevin, the guesthouse Le Moulin du Chemin in Sillé offers easy access to the Marais Poitevin and nearby attractions.

How to get to Mare Poitevin?

Are you traveling from the UK? Load up the car, bikes, kids, and dog, and take the ferry to Marais Poitevin. The journey from Newhaven to Dieppe with DFDS Seaways takes four to five hours, with overnight crossings and cabins (book in advance to reserve). Then, a five-hour drive through France can easily be broken up in the Loire Valley, where vineyards and châteaux provide a pleasant respite. Four-legged friends will love the fairy-tale and very dog-friendly Château d'Usse. Meanwhile, wine lovers can stop in Vouvray—just 10 minutes off the highway in Tours—to stock up. Visit François and Julien Pinon (by appointment) for quality Vouvray white wine made from Chenin Blanc, or drop by one of the Maisons des Vins in the heart of the village to taste (and buy) wines from local producers. Brittany Ferries also offers routes from Portsmouth in England to Saint-Malo, Caen, Cherbourg, and Le Havre. The drive from Saint-Malo to Coulon in Marais Poitevin takes about three and a half hours by car. Most electric vehicles will need to recharge along the way. Chargefinder provides a detailed list of electric vehicle charging points in France. By train, you can reach Niort or Mosnes-sur-le-Mignon on the high-speed TGV service from Paris to La Rochelle, which takes about three hours. From Niort, local bus services connect various communities in Marais Poitevin—including Arçais and Coulon—on the way to Saint-Hilaire-la-Palud.

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