Green Spain - Europe's possible Eden? Why it's not worth missing out?

Every month seems to bring new news about more and more Americans moving to Portugal... but almost no one mentions that just 100 miles to the northeast is a gorgeous slice of the Iberian coast that has all the same appealing factors. Let's call it "Green Spain".

Beginning of the trip

We start from Bilbao in northern Spain and then move west to the resort of Ribadesella. Within this 200-kilometer stretch, Green Spain combines all the same components that make Portugal so appealing: soft sandy beaches, low cost of living, Spanish sunshine and outdoor cafes.

Searching for information on moving to Spain''leads to a plethora of reports and resources directing you to the Mediterranean coast or the incessant squabbles of sister cities Barcelona and Madrid. As for the north, Green Spain, it's the information age equivalent of empty space emblazoned with the inscription 'Here Dragons Dwell'. So, in the spirit of pilgrimage and adventure storytelling, I find myself behind the wheel of a rented Fiat 500 on the A-8 highway, clutching the steering wheel between trucks with trailers, suicidal teenagers on motorcycles... and maybe even dragons. I'm here to explore a forgotten part of Europe that offers just about everything.

Bilbao: a city reborn.

My journey begins in Bilbao, a vibrant port city reborn after its''industrial past to gastronomic art and contemporary art. From Bilbao, I'll head west to the coastal towns of Llanes and Ribadesella. Either of these could be ideal for adventurous expatriates looking for affordable beach life in a relatively unexplored part of Spain. From there, I'll head to the Picos de Europa mountains.

Green Spain

Green Spain is not a strictly defined area, but rather a way of naming the northernmost part of the country. Spain is divided into 17 administrative provinces known as autonomous communities. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on Cantabria, Asturias and a small section of Biscaya (as this is where Bilbao is located). Green Spain offers a temperate microclimate and fertile''landscapes that provide a comfortable alternative to the arid extremes that characterize more southerly regions. For the potential emigrant, it's a four-season wonderland, with deserted spring beaches and shimmering fall forests.

Picos de Europa

What makes this region so special, and what makes Green Spain green, is the Picos de Europa mountain range. Huge limestone cliffs suddenly rise above the coast and reach heights of over 10,000 feet. The transition from coast to mountainous forest is almost instantaneous, with sharp ridges and peaks rising above the road just five miles from the coast.

• Monthly average temperatures range from 25 °C in August to 8 °C in February.
• In Green Spain, apple orchards, sheep farms, fishing villages, factory towns, mountain villages and beach resorts compete for a place on the warm coast.

Europe's oldest cave paintings found in Altamira, near Ribadesella, suggest that Green Spain was as attractive to prehistoric inhabitants 37,000 years ago as it is to modern residents.

Bilbao: a revitalized city

Bilbao will forever be linked to titanium Bilbao'. 'Guggenheim Museum by architect Frank Gehry. Opened in 1997 in an attempt to revitalize the city, the building is a key point on the timeline of postwar world architecture. Unlike many statements of architecture, it is almost universally liked by visitors and residents. The building's polished exterior glistens in the sun during the day and glows at dusk. Its flowing organic lines recall Bilbao's maritime heritage.

Bilbao has had its periods of wealth and power. For centuries, it was Spain's commercial, shipping and banking center. But by 1990, the city had fallen victim to the post-industrial era of globalization. Its economy, based on steel and heavy industry, had been decimated by Asian competition. The recession looked''irreversible until an initiative to rebrand itself as an arts and tourism center resulted in the majestic Gehry Guggenheim. The gallery attracted a huge amount of positive media coverage.

Investments in commerce and tourism infrastructure followed. The result: Bilbao is now one of Europe's most well-kept and cozy cities. Stroll along the river past art galleries, international glass hotels and converted warehouse buildings, or along the green neoclassical shopping boulevards around the Gran Via and you'll find it hard to imagine Bilbao's rough industrial past.

Take one of the quiet and clean streetcars from the Ribera fish market in the old town to''convention centers and sports fields in the San Mames sector...' and you'll get a cheap (€1.50 per ticket) tour of the city's best parks, buildings and river views.

The identity of Bilbao changes from neighborhood to neighborhood. The Old Town (Casco Viejo) is both touristy and residential, always energetic and beautiful. Deusto, north of the river, is a student neighborhood with more affordable restaurants and bars. Gran Via is an upscale and exclusive neighborhood, but after a few blocks it becomes more eclectic, multi-ethnic and noticeably more affordable when approaching Calle San Francisco.

The Basques, the locals of the Baskonia region stretching from Bilbao to southeastern France, pride themselves on having the best cuisine in Spain (not surprisingly,''Every region of Spain prides itself on having the best cuisine in Spain). They celebrate this by gathering at outdoor tables on every possible tile.

Sometimes the bar itself is just a small room, a kitchen and a couple of toilets, but the terrace in front of it can serve 30 tables. Grab a couple of pinchos (small portions of appetizers similar to tapas, only more refined)