5 great wines: orange varieties

Photo: Sam Ortiz December 05, 2023

Despite its ancient roots and modern popularity, orange wine still lacks a legal definition and is still categorized as a white wine. So it's no surprise that the resurgence of interest in the style has caused both excitement and confusion. Sommelier Doreen Winkler favored the former and launched the first orange wine subscription in 2019. She now has a store in lower East Manhattan featuring wines from around the world, and Winkler continues to promote the style and education in the area. "I've been passionate about orange wine for over a decade," she says. "The texture, the flavor - it's all so fascinating that no''another category can't compare." Winkler offers five of his current favorites.

"Japanese wine is very popular right now, and rightly so," says Winkler. "I'm particularly impressed with this sparkling wine produced in the ancestral method. "

The wine from winemaker Kazuomi Fujimaki is produced in Yamagata, a region historically known for sake. The grapes (a blend of Delaware, Shine Muscat and Niagara) are macerated for one day, after which the juice is immediately pumped into bottles and corked to begin fermentation. "This wine tastes like a Garibo Tropicana blend - just wonderful!" - she says. $48.99

"The Stoppini brothers are true garage winemakers - the French term for wine produced in small quantities at'

explains Winkler. It's justified, given that their first vintage of 2019 was produced literally in a garage in Umbria.

Winemaker Philippe Brand toiled in Burgundy, Greece and Barossa Valley in Australia before returning to the family estate.

'He joined his father in 2006, revitalizing their''flower, apricot, lemon, honeysuckle, dried rose petals and stones,' she says." $30

"What makes this wine special is that the grapes in this blend have been treated individually and differently. "

explains Winkler. Winemaker Gerhard Pittnauer co-ferments the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on the skins in an open vessel for 14 days, while the Muscat gets skin contact for three days, the Gewürztraminer is aged in amphorae on the skins for 20 days, and the Gelber Muscatel is aged briefly after maceration. "After reading separately in amphorae and old oak for six months, the four wines were blended just before bottling. The texture is just magical," says Winkler, noting flavors of lychee, rose petal and dried mango. $''33.97

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