Quality is more important than quantity in Italian wine picking

The combination of extreme heat and heavy rain has reduced Italy's harvest, but what there is should be mostly excellent. If winemakers and wine producers in Italy thought they had survived a difficult growing season in 2022 with its double assault of extreme heat and pronounced drought, they must be wondering what they have done to deserve the weather in 2023. Along with the series of intense heat waves that have been so typical over the past few years, winemakers, especially those in central and southern Italy, had to endure excessive rainfall, which in turn caused serious cases of peronospora, a mold that causes serious damage to the vineyard. All this meant less quantity almost everywhere, although most producers reported excellent quality.

Here is the opinion of producers from several regions in Italy about the growing season and the 2023 crop.

Piedmont

In Barbaresco, Daniela Rocca noted a very dry winter followed by a very rainy May, which caused a late start to the summer, which she recalls began in the vineyards in early July. Unfortunately, it was during this time that some of her vineyards were hit by severe hail. She reports that they had no problems with peronospora as the late start to the growing season spared their plants. Federica Boffa of Pio Cesare in Alba was pleased with her Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Timorasso harvested in the first days of September; "we were extremely pleased with the quality, acidity, flavors and complexity." She called 2023 a "consistent vintage," with a summer "that lasted through October with sunny days, blue skies, warm temperatures during the day and cooler nights - perfect weather for Nebbiolo." Matteo Molino of Mauro Molino in La Morra recalled two days of heavy rain in late August that "ensured good ripeness of Nebbiolo bunches." Molino predicts a splendid 2023 Barolo year. Pietro Ratti at Annunziata noted that alcohol levels are lower than in 2022, while the strong cutting of the crop was extremely beneficial for the variable summer weather. Stefano Gagliardo of Gianni Gagliardo in La Morra stated that "the quality of 2023 is a miracle". His reasoning is that he has seen extreme climatic conditions throughout the growing season, first with lots of rain, then near-dry conditions, and then in the fall with summer climates

Alto Adige

At Elena Walch winery in Tramina, Caroline Walch noted that after a challenging spring and early summer with abnormally high rainfall, "since the end of July we have been gifted with many sunny days and dry weather." She described the early fall as "phenomenal," noting that they were able to harvest "calmly and slowly." Harvest for their Gewürztraminer Viña Castelas took place on Oct. 5. "I can't remember the last time we harvested Gewürztraminer in October." Overall, she notes very good acidity levels, alcohol levels in line with previous years and an average harvest.

Veneto

Sandro Boscaini of Masi, one of Amarone's leading wineries, recalled a long period of summer rains that led to fungal attacks but also favored "vegetative development of plants and fruit. Abnormal temperatures in August slowed the metabolic activity of the vines and as a result ripening occurred on average six to seven days later than in 2022." Ricardo Tedeschi, at the family vineyard in Valpolicella Classico, said the winery "took the path of environmental sustainability ... we've been able to step in and fight disease in an intentional and targeted way. We have had no problems with either peronospora or powdery mildew. So far, the harvest for Amarone has an excellent appearance. The wines are expected to have excellent structure, good color, interesting aromas and even more freshness compared to 2021."

Tuscany

Winemaker Barbara Widmer of Brancaia in Radda in Chianti noted that the number of grapes harvested in Chianti was "well below average" due to the heavy rains in May and June. Peronospora has been a problem in Chianti, especially for its Merlot, which she says is "much more sensitive" and losses have been correspondingly greater. She reports an excellent growing season in Maremma on the coast.

Marche

Gianluca Mirizzi of Montecappone, the leading producer of Verdiccio dei Castelli di Jesi, commented on the peculiarities of this year's weather. "This is the fourth year in a row that the Marche has had a warmer winter than usual, and the spring was warmer than in the last two years." What's even stranger is that even with the heat, 26 percent more rain fell than the historical average. He noted that powdery mildew has been a problem because of the rainfall. Overall, he notes that acidity levels are very good and that sugar levels for his red grapes will be more balanced compared to last year. Also in the Jesi area, Leo Felici of Andrea Felici Vineyard in Apiro noted "exceptional rainfall in May and June ... precipitation that has not been seen for decades". He comments that the heavy rainfall and low temperatures slowed plant growth. Fortunately, September saw little rainfall and significant temperature variations between day and night, which had a positive effect on the quality of the grapes.

Abruzzo

Heavy rains in May and June caused problems throughout the region; according to Elena Nicodemi of the Nicodemi family vineyard, the 2023 growing season has not been very positive. "As for the harvest," she says, "I wish someone would wake me up and tell me it was a nightmare. We lost 50-55 percent of our production." She noted that some local producers didn't even harvest Montepulciano, "so we can consider ourselves lucky." She mentioned that the quality of the grapes is very good, but she expects the alcohol content to be slightly higher.

Campaign

Piero Mastroberardino from the historic estate in Atripalda recalled that in March and April, the drop in temperature caused a delay in plant growth by one to two weeks compared to previous years. The heatwaves in July and August, followed by sunny days and cool nights, created the perfect climate for excellent ripening conditions. "The quality of the grapes is extremely high, exceeding expectations. On the other hand, the quantity is very low." At Donnachiara in Irpinia, Ilaria Petitto referred to 2023 as a "snapshot harvest." "I call it that because it has never lasted so briefly." Noting the low yield, she said, "There are vineyards that harvested one-tenth of their crop. In Montefalcone, we collected half of what we harvested last year." Nevertheless, she is optimistic about the quality, claiming it is "amazing." Antonio Capaldo at Feudi di San Gregorio in Sorbo Serpico reported a 30% reduction in the harvest of Falanghina and Fiano, 50% for Aglianico, and 60% for Greco. "The quality looks very good, and if conditions continue as they are now, we will have a wonderful Taurasi vintage."

Sicily - Etna

Diego Kuzumano from Alta Mora noted that he had no issues with downy mildew in his vineyards and only experienced one light hailstorm in one of his contradas. "The production of Carricante in our vineyards on the northern slope of Etna is slightly below expectations. But we are just starting the harvest, and the quality seems excellent." At Palmento Costanzo, located in the contrada of Santo Spirito, owner Valeria Agosta Costanzo points out that at an altitude of 700 meters, the vines have managed to recover after the premature onset of powdery mildew due to heavy rainfall in May. "As for the last two to three years, the harvest has been early due to the hot weather."

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