"Health, Heat, Rot in Italy Push France to Top of Global Wine Making - BNN Bloomberg"

"Early on a sunny September morning, I try ripe juicy Merlot grape berries at the famous Masseto vineyard in the Bolgheri region ofTuscany, as workers unload rich, violet berries. Winemaker Gaia Gaja Chinirella smiles, tasting the berry. 'Overall, I am very satisfied,' she says. 'The potential for great wine this year is good. We are lucky.'"

The growing season was not easy, with such heavy rains, extreme heat, and humidity that Chinnirella had only seen during her visits to Asia. In many parts of Italy and France, this combination contributed to the biggest problem of2023: powdery mildew, a fungal disease that can quickly spread in vineyards, damaging the grapes and significantly reducing the yield. Masseto had a team of80 vineyard workers who constantly checked each vine to detect and treat any potential infection in time before it could spread. The organic boutique estate of Girolemo Russo on Mount Etna in Sicily was not so lucky, as they could not spray chemical fungicides on their century-old vineyards to eradicate the most severe powdery mildew outbreak in the region in the last70 years. As a result, they will produce70% less wine than last year. Another season like this could edge the estate towards closure. In fact, according to forecasts from the European Commission, the French Ministry of Agriculture, and other organizations, Italy will no longer be the world leader in wine production for the first time in many years. Analysts predict a12% decrease in production volume in Italy, dropping below44 million hectoliters in2023. Meanwhile, France is forecasted to produce46 million hectoliters, putting the country at the top of global production.

The harvest always reflects sharp contrasts from region to region, sometimes from estate to neighboring estate. This year it was marked not only by powdery mildew, but also by extreme weather conditions caused by global climate change: in Italy, entire vineyards in Emilia-Romagna were washed away in May, when the amount of rainfall in72 hours equaled seven months' worth. Hail the size of a golf ball destroyed vineyards in15 villages in the wine region of Kakheti in Georgia in just a few minutes on September2nd. Other major issues in Europe were drought and scorching heat, which hit summer tourists hard. Drastic temperatures and the hottest August in Spain's history seriously affected early ripening varieties like Tempranillo, leading to a more than20% decrease in the country's production. In some parts of Europe, this year's grape harvest will be the smallest in six years.

A pleasant surprise this year was the state of California. The harvest is one month behind compared to last year after a long cool season dating back to the pre-climate change and annual wildfires. Many winemakers are expecting an excellent Cabernet harvest in mid-October in their cellars. The vintage in Napa could be magnificent. Here is an overview by region. Promising harvest in Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles after a long and cool season. Let's start with the winner. What a difference a year can make! Last year in Northern California saw the earliest harvest in history; in2023 it happened a month later than usual. This reflects winter rains that replenished enough moisture in the soil after several years of drought to sustain the grapevines throughout the summer, as well as the coolest summer in the last decade. Winemaker Pauline Lott of Chandon calls this vintage a "record in the history books." Massive grape producer Andy Beckstoffer, who notes his54th harvest and owns vineyards in Sonoma, Napa, and Lake counties, says the harvest season had the best start for all grape varieties. Matt Crafton, winemaker at Chateau Montelena in Napa, says, "When I think about the wines that made Montelena and the Napa Valley great, they were created in vintages like2023, with slow, steady development of flavor, texture, and character. It doesn't get any better." High temperatures in October pushed red grape varieties to a strong finish. Other winemakers forecast deep wines with a variety of shades compared to2019 and with lower alcohol levels.

The story in Sonoma is similar. "In all my20 years of winemaking on the Sonoma Coast, I have never seen such a long and cool vintage," says Jamie Kutch, who makes the best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. "I never thought I would see a year when some Napa Cabernets ripen earlier than our Pinot Noir." At Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles, harvest was only one-third complete as of October5th, thanks in part to a record cool September. "Everything we've picked so far looks fantastic," owner Jason Haas wrote on his blog. He expects harvest to last into November, so he remains hopeful for the best.