Inside an Italian village where Americans are being relocated

More than300 foreigners from12 different countries, including the United States and Canada, have settled in the southern Basilicata region's Italian village of Irsina, which has become a place of attraction for those buying old, inexpensive homes and helping to revive this abandoned city. They are living together with4,000 locals.

Up to the1960s, this hilltop village surrounded by fields was home to12,000 people, but due to mass emigration and difficult living conditions, by1960 only4,500 residents remained in the old historic center. Today, it's a different story. By2023, Irisina has become a dream destination for foreign retirees and immigrants from the USA living in rural Italy. Over15 families from the USA and Canada have bought old houses in this remote village, known for its wheat fields and olive groves. They continue to buy homes and expand their properties, talking about this dreamy place that seems frozen in time. Each time they return, they bring along relatives and friends who happily spend between20,000 to150,000 euros (22,000 to165,000 USD) on spacious homes with bucolic views. Walking through the narrow alleyways, one can hear various accents—American, Canadian, French, Norwegian. There's even a road that locals have renamed "Belgian Street" because of the large number of Belgians living there.

The history of Irisina dates back to ancient times. It was inhabited by early people and tribes, with archaeological finds, including tools, weapons, and pottery used by ancient people, displayed in the village museum. The old district, surrounded by high walls, is a labyrinth of decorated stone gates, medieval watchtowers, and elegant palaces belonging to the wealthy rural bourgeoisie. But what foreigners love - narrow car-free streets, is not desired by the locals. Many residents of Irisina moved to new areas of the city in the1960s, leaving the historical center practically empty.

Iršina is known for its "botteene" - underground tunnels through which water used to be supplied to the city's cisterns. It is also known for its tradition of "human towers" - every May, actors dressed as farmers and landlords build a tower symbolizing social hierarchies of the past. The city is also known for its delicious dishes with unusual names. Lagena pu m'r'katte is hand pasta with fig, prepared in wine and sweet pepper, while kallaridde are delicacies made from sheep and goat meat. And although life in Iršina is not always idyllic, with snowy winters that can block access to the city for several days, immigrants here say they are living the dream.

Sandy Webster, a writer from San Diego, and her husband Keith became the first foreigners to buy a house in Irsina. They fell in love with this village, bought an old house with thick stone walls and antique furniture, spent four years restoring it, and moved here from London in2012. The first to visit Irsina was Sandy Webster, a writer from San Diego, and her husband Keith. "In1989, I visited Sorrento with my then-boyfriend and fell in love with Italy. I spoke conversational Spanish and wanted to buy a house in a Mediterranean country, either in Spain or Italy," Webster says. Her dream came true when they visited Basilicata for her husband's50th birthday. It was then that she received notice of a house for sale in Irsina and decided to buy it. "We drove and drove into the countryside until we arrived at charming Irsina. At that time, there was only one hotel open a few days a year, but now there are many guesthouses," she says. The Websters' house made of pink stone has four panoramic terraces and overlooks a small sunny square in the old part of town. The renovation cost them four times more than the purchase price (which she does not disclose). Utility bills are not much lower than in the UK, but they say food is cheaper here. "We completely renovated the house. There was only one small bathroom, and the attic was turned into a guest apartment, while we preserved the original huge vaulted living room.

What makes Irshin unusual among Italian villages is that it is practically flat. There are no steep steps or uphill alleys, only arched passageways. The village is situated on a raised plateau, making it perfect for strolls, especially for elderly people, says Webster. "We wouldn't want to change anything. Sometimes we're dissatisfied with the lack of real Mexican or Chinese food nearby as an alternative to the local cuisine, which is tasty but it's all good," she adds.

The Websters did not encounter any bureaucracy issues when buying and renovating their home thanks to the help of local residents who were happy to assist newcomers in their village. The only obstacle that remains is communication: "We still speak Italian like four-year-olds and have to write notes to the construction team to give them clear instructions."

How did the foreigners come? How did others follow their lead? Webster says the word spread thanks to a local company of plumbers and architects who united and placed ads for potential vacation homes on the internet. But much of Irpinia's global attractiveness can be explained by lineage. Tiffany Day, a former financial advisor from Nashville, is an unofficial ambassador for Irpinia in the United States. After buying five homes for her large family, she brought more and more American friends with her so they could buy property in the village. Why? She felt drawn to her roots. Day's grandmother is from Irpinia, and she still has relatives in the village—like her aunt Antonietta, who knows all the foreigners. Day loves to throw huge "mixed" parties on the elegant panoramic terrace of her18th century palazzo, where locals and Americans mingle. In October, about200 guests will gather there to celebrate her son Hunter's wedding, the bride's parents also bought a house in the town. Tiffany Day has brought many Americans to Irpinia.

"I reconnected with this place in2016 when my grandmother hosted a family dinner in Irsina, we came fromRome to make her happy. We spent the night and visited the place the next day. I just love this little village on the hill surrounded by greenery," she says. When Day returned to Irsina, they bought a house - once noble but now ruined - for100,000 euros ($110,000) and spent the same amount on its restoration. Now it looks like a luxurious estate from a glossy magazine, with a panoramic bathroom overlooking the hills and old thick stones protruding from the walls. "I brought family members and friends from the USA, everyone wanted to come and buy nine houses," she says, adding that another "104 travelers" visited this village. Day says that the locals are kind and modest, and the beauty of Irsina is enchanting, but to truly appreciate it, one must look beyond appearances. "When we came here in2016, over80% of the population had moved to the new district of Irsina, the old Irsina was empty, and we liked how it looked. The village just needed a little attention, everyone loves the views and landscapes, you just need to look at it through the eyes of others, pay attention to the hidden value."

** Interest from foreigners in the old district has motivated local residents to also clean up their homes, leading to a revival of Irsina, says Day, who comes here four times a year. "Something magical." Beth Ancona, the mother of Day's future bride, also bought a house in Irsina, inspired by the desire to reconnect with her husband's Italian roots. "He's Sicilian, but we found our casa in Irsina."